Traveling around El Salvador
Different from my trips in other countries, I traveled little here, and spent most of my time with my family. I do know there is surfing, volcano climbing and some colonial towns to visit around. There is also La Ruta de las Flores, which is a line of five towns known for their handicrafts, foods, lakes and waterfalls.
Tourism here is still developing, which is a very good thing for the independent traveler. Public transportation is very cheap, markets are very lively and food is good and extremely affordable. Check out the El Salvador Impresionante website for some ideas on what to do.
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| From PBS article "Enemies of War" http://www.pbs.org/itvs/enemiesofwar/elsalvador2.html |
For those interested in history, El Salvador had a civil war in the 1980's. How it developed was basically the same as in the other countries in Central America. Long story short, people took on arms to end years of elite ruling, social inequality, human rights violations, and social unjustice. The FMLN, a leftist guerrilla group fought the army, which in turn massacred innocent people. At the peace accords, the FMLN gave out the guns and became a political party. Today, they are in power, with President Mauricio Funes.
One of the outcomes from the war was the separation of families. Many children were killed and others taken by the army to be trained as soilders. Others, were given for adoption in a trade that became profitable. As a result, many families lost track of some of those children. Pro-Busqueda is one of the non-for profit organizations that tries to find displaced children from the war.
PBS has a small article called Enemies of War, giving a summary of the conflict, US involvement and the killing of Archbishop Oscar Romero. The picture above is from the day the "Archbishop of the Poor" was killed by the army while he was giving a mass at La Divina Providencia Chapel.
Pri Generation
"El Pri" or "MiPri" is our short version for "The/My Cousin 2.0". This is a term that came out a few years ago, and over time has become something deep. More than a word, it is a philosophy.... our philosophy.
I spent a lot of time hanging out with my cousins, particularly with Henry (left), also known as "El Pri 2.2". We had good conversations about anything and everything, and learned a lot more from each other. This guy is very smart and a lot of fun.
I also had a few beers and interesting conversations with Roberto, "El Pri 2.3". He is a very good bartender, although I think my mojitos are better MiPri.... just saying ;) Same deal with him, smart and a crazy dude. These two guys are great people, and for all I know, they are also my brothers.
Oscar, Norma, Wendy, Tavo, Carmen, Jacquie, Rocio, Xioma, Ceci, Tessy and so many other cousins I had the opportunity to hang out with in this trip were so great. This is my other half of me, and am proud of it.
BTW, I happen to be "El Pri 2.1" by self-definition. Que galan!!!
I survived the 42 Route Minivan
Here is the deal. Bus drivers in Guatemala run fast even when turning closed curves up the mountains. In El Salvador, they are not only fast, but have extremely aggressive driving skills during rush hour in the capital. They are the craziest from all the countries I have been to. Watch out!
The Malls
In San Salvador, I went to the five malls in Ciudad Merliot, which are really nice in terms of architecture and design. La Gran Via was the nicest. It is very relaxing to walk at night around here and have a crepe with nutela or seat at a bench for coffee. I actually liked it better than many malls in Westchester and Rockland Counties, NY.
The Mall at Multiplaza is not as nice. It looks like a giant box with lots of empty spaces, but the night life here is great. I went to Las Terrazas, where there are restaurants, bars and dance clubs. The Salsa scene on Thursdays at Live is good. My only problem was that I still have difficulties dancing salsa in Central America. Here, the on1 style is King, and virtually nobody knows what on2 is. However, it was fun and I met some people including Ticos.
Then there is Torre Futura. This is an office building that is not open to the public. The entire external structure changes colors at night, and downstairs there are restaurants and cafes in a terrace with a magnificent view of San Salvador.
The trips
El Salvador is mostly known for surfing, volcanos and pupusas. I had more of the last one... lots of it! I guess after months of being on the go day-in-and-day-out, I gave in to the tempting idea of just taking it easy and staying at home, on the hammock drinking horchata at my aunt Carmencita's house, or hanging out at Starbucks in La Gran Via Mall to write my notes. This is a good place for thinking and writing - somehow I can concentrate much better in noisy places instead of libraries and the like, which might be weird, but it is effective at least for me.
The first week was more about malls, hanging out at home, going out at night to a club or bar, and visiting family around the neigborhood. The second week, however, was packed with outtings, starting with Termos del Rio, in La Libertad. This is a waterpark with termal waters and a pool with waves. There is also a small section for kayaking, but it was dry this time - not happy about that, cause I like kayaking.
Then we went to San Vicente, a very nice and quite town. My mom, her brother and all her six cousins were born and raised here. We went with my aunt Paqui to the market and visited the stand where my mom used to sell eggs and tomatoes years before she moved to Costa Rica. A few blocks south is the park featuring a clock tower right in the middle.
Something else I like about San Vicente is the huge trees, and how much people love them. Two of them are particularly interesting. One is El Arbol de los Cuches (The Tree of the Pigs). Long time ago people would trade pigs around this tree from early in the morning. Imagine that! Oink-Oink! Aside from that, it is in the middle of a main street, and cars actually have to go around it.
The other tree is El Arbol de Tempisque, where there is a plaque stating that it was at this location where San Vicente was established. Word has it that the Spaniards liked the shade of this tree and decided to build a town around it.
The other tree is El Arbol de Tempisque, where there is a plaque stating that it was at this location where San Vicente was established. Word has it that the Spaniards liked the shade of this tree and decided to build a town around it.
On Thursday we visited my uncle Omar in Cojutepeque. I had a chance to kick the ball for a while and beat my cousin with a score of 9 to 1. He is 15, so apparentely this is the only time I can actually play soccer better than someone else... I am so bad at it!
We went up to Cerro de las Pavas (Turkey Hill) for a view of the Valley of Jiboa, Lake of Ilopango, and San Vicente Volcano, and to see the altar of La Virgen de Fátima (Our Lady of Fatima). It is said that in 1917 three children in Portugal saw the Virgin and she gave them a message to be spread around the world. On the left side there is a space for plaques with messages with thank you notes for miracles. The altar is nicely decorated with fresh flowers and a small fountain.
Salvadorian Food... So Tasty!!
The best foods here are tamales, atol chuco, and pupusas. Can't even write about this whitout thinking of eating!
In this country Tamales are on demand year round. My aunt Paqui has been in the business of cooking and selling them for over 25 years. Every time I come visit, she is in the back yard, cooking with a group of other women. In a single day they can make 400-500 tamales filled in with beens, chicken and cheese, and horchata or fruit juice. It requires lot of work to prepare them and takes up the entire day from early in the morning to late in the evening to prepare and sell. They are really good, and people from far in El Salvador come to buy them... and even as far as the US!
My aunt Toty makes atol shuco, a very typical corn drink from El Salvador. It is served hot in a jicama bowl and comes with cooked beans at the bottom, and drops of tabasco for the brave. A drink like this in the late afternoon is enough to forget about anything stressful while just seating and looking around as if everything was new again. Very tasty!
Pupusas are one of the most delicious and typical dishes in El Salvador. They are made of corn or rice tortillas, filled in with cheese, loroco, smashed beans, and/or pork rind. They are so good with coffee, topped with encurtido (pickled cabbage for garnish) and tomato sauce. I actually can make them, but not as well as a Salvadorian with experience.
My family in El Salvador
This was the fifth time I came to visit. My mom is actually cousin with all six aunts and uncles, but they refer to her as their sister. She took care of them when they were little and shared many experiences that today are the foundation of a strong relationship. There is one more uncle, Toño. I was not able to see him, but hope to do it next time I visit.
My auncle Oscar, my mom's brother had planned to come visit, and we all would have loved to have seen him among us. He passed away in September last year.
Pito, this one is for you.
To my family, love you all
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