Quetzaltenango, most commonly known as Xela (shell-ah), is the second largest city in Guatemala after the capital. The farmland towns around Xela are small, traditional, and very rich with Mayan culture. I visited three towns where agriculture is the engine of the economy in Zunil, Almolonga and San Andres Xeluc. The views of the farmland and a religious procession carried out entirely by indigenous was quite an experience.
Getting there from Lago Atitlan was the beginning of the adventure. The bus driver stepped on the gas peddal like there was no tomorrow, daring the sharp curves and bottomless hills, with the spirit of the Formula 1 speed lovers.
Everything in those buses move. It was fun to see the driver going side to side with his entire buddy to control the steering wheel. Some people are so used to this, they can even sleep while holding to the seat in front, sliding sideways and very slowly at every crazy turn to the tune of a Bachata song, Lagrimas. Another time, there were three volunteers who were too tall to fit in the small seats in a ridiculously crowded chicken bus, so, they went up to the roof instead!
Soccer is the national sport, and fans go on non-stop when their team is on the field. On the first night I went to the stadium to see a match. Around the same time, the under-20 national team made it to the world cup in Colombia. This was history, because no Guatemalan team had ever made it to a world cup. Go Guate!!!
Xela and the towns nearby were some of my favorite places, where I lived a totally different experience, as I did in every single place I visted in Guatemala. Getting laid off was once again proven to be a life-saver sign for me. Thanks Sabrina!
Zunil
This is a small farmland town south of Xela.The agricultural market town and the white colonial church with red-tiled roof surrounded by the old brownish houses are nice and charming. Zunil looks like a typical Guatemalan highland town, rich with Mayan culture and centuries-old religious traditions and way of life.
The view of the church backed by the large mountains, which they themselves are covered by thick courtains of white clouds gives a calming feeling. Also, the market at the small plaza in front of the church is very bright and nice to visit. Women here wear a colorful band around their head, and the colors of their clothes blend with the reddish and brownish tones of the town.
Atop the hill, I saw one of the most colorful and interesting cemetaries I've ever seen. The predominant colors of the small tumbs are white, green and blue. Almost every tumb is decorated with colorfull paper flowers. In the back, the mountains; at the bottom, the town of Zunil.
The large market by the river is also very interesting and busy. There are pick-ups driving slowly along the bridge picking up and dropping off loads of vegetables. Men walk fast, almost running with loads of onions on their backs in the traditional way, with their foreheads instead of using their shoulders. Women are for the most part the sellers. Some of them also help to carry products by balancing baskets and bags over their heads. People run around here, but talk very little, which is very different from other markets in the cities.
San Andres Xeluc
This small farmland town is to the north of Xela, about 40 minutes by bus. One of the most stricking buildings here is the church. Its facade is super colorfull, perdominantly yellow with blue and red, and has a collection of images of tigers and monkeys. The surrounding walls are white, and the multicolors obsession continuos with the dome. Inside, there are neon signs. Very interesting!
I was so lucky, because I had just arrived on time to see the procession of the Virgen del Dolor. In Antigua, Catholic processions are all carried out by ladinos, with virtually zero participation of the indigenous. San Andres Xeluc is mostly Mayan, and the image of the Virgin was carried around town on 12 women's shoulders. There was also a band following them, with very dramatic and slow tunes, which were very effective in making us feel the passion of the moment.
At the beginning of the procession we almost had an accident. A cow was running lose, and it was going right towards the Virgin, and when it all seemed inevitable, the cow turned to the left, and disappeared in one of the norrow streets.... it was so close!
Outside of the town the brown houses get mixed with the color of dirt. The downtown area is small and hilly. Going deep inside the town, the houses seem extremely old, all of them built with mud and clay. On that day, the streets were isolated before the procession, but every now and then, I would see people appearing around the corner, carrrying wood with their foreheads, baskets with vegetables on their heads, children on their backs, all looking at me like the stranger I was, taking pictures and notes.
Back to Xela
A good place to stay is the Black Cat. The towns I visited are not far from Xela, and they all can be visited in two days with time, one day just passing by. Wanna party? I recommend La Parranda near the central park for a good dancing night. Like in Antigua, the salsa scene on Wednesdays is top notch!
Photo album
No comments:
Post a Comment