The bus from San Jose to La Fortuna makes stops in different towns, many of which are still very traditional. Way up high in the mountains, cold clouds touching the bright green fields, and the black and white cows and oxen scattered throughout the wavy hills are the perfect picture frame. This trip alone is well worth taking.
For this one-week trip, Marian was my traveling buddy. Thanks for visiting from NY. It was great!
La Fortuna & Arenal Volcano
La Fortuna is a small town close to the Arenal Volcano, which is still active. In a good day - that means, when the sky is clear - the entire volcano can be seen. At times, bright red lava flows down the eastern side during the night, in an expectable that is seen only by a few chosen ones. I was lucky to see it one time a few years ago, while drinking a Tico Cuba Libre at the termal waters in Tabacon.
There are lots of hotels and hostels along the main road, and a few good places for food, drinks and live music. One of the best places is Lava Lounge, with a bohemian look and feeling. This place is popular also among the town street dogs. They are all over the place, some sleeping next to the tables, and others waiting with patience for dinner. For breakfast I liked La Choza del Laurel (the website has traditional Costa Rican music). The main area is an open air dinning room, decorated with old forniture and sweet plaintain bunches to feed the birds. For dinner La Parada, a.k.a. "La Muerta de Hambre" serves the best Costa Rican food.
At Lava, we met Milo Corrales, a Costa Rican artist who plays the best Trova, Spanish Rock and Cuban songs with a very unique style. He records different instruments and chorus on the go all by himself, then plays them on the background while singing and playing another instrument, making him a one-man band. This guy is amazing and passionate about his art.
Good luck in your travels buddy!
Check out this video of Milo playing Pablo Neruda's Poema 15
Zip Lines near the Volcano
Zip lining is just part of the adventure. Rather than looking forward, it is best to look to the side, and fully appreciate the breathtaking view of flat land across San Carlos. I mean, look at the picture! At first it is scary, but then it is difficult to let go. Think about it, flying at high speed at 900 feet above the tree tops. After 10 lines and the Tarzan Swing in less than two hours, it was sad to realize we were done.
The entire tour is exciting. The Tarzan Swing, 60 feet high, is great. Every woman that jumped did it screaming "ahhhhh!!!", and every man did it shouting "Holy Shit!!!" No kidding. Then there was the last line, the longest by 1200 feet, going so fast that my tears were coming out. At the beginning there were faces of fear, and towards the end we all felt like kings of the jungle.
Rapelling - 4 waterfalls and 1 flat wall
This was the first time I climbed down waterfalls. The adventure started on the road up the mountain on a 4 x 4 truck that looked more like a truck used for landscaping back in Westchester, New York. The road was bad and at times we all thought the truck would turn over and roll down the hill - very good! Along the way, there are a few wooden houses with chickens and horses in their front yards, and dramatic views of the volcano and flat land across the horizon in their back yards.
Getting from one waterfall to the next is easy. The group goes through the canyon and along the river. The trails are well marked, but I thought it would be better to make it difficult and walk inside the water. The first waterfall is also the tallest, at about 95 feet. The other ones are shorter, but tricky and different from one another. We all were wearing blue water jackets and halmets, and looking back at the line, it was like seeing a group of Smurfs.
Rio Celeste - Tenorio Volcano
The hike to Rio Celeste near Tenorio is a very good experience. The volcanic activity releases a series of minerals that mix with the water, creating a quimical reaction that results in a light blue color. The entire hike takes about five hours with a few stops, but for those who know more about the jungle it is sad they cannot camp here.
Along the river the hike is challenging and the blue water is impressive. There was a sign saying it was not recommended to swim in the river because no one really knows what could happen. Still, there is a section with termal waters where one can bath. I found my spot in between the rocks without moving, and the water kept changing from hot to cold. It is like an open air spa, covered by tall trees, birds flying, and perfect for eating a snack, preferably fruit.
Then there is the waterfall. The drop is about 60 feet high, and the water around the main pool is blue. It is not easy to swim in here because of the strong undercurrents that go in all directions. Still, after a long hike, this was a really good spot to stop and rest.
For lunch, we went to Posada La Amistad with Max, our taxi driver. Later we learned that his nickname is "Pollo" (chicken). There, Doña Socorro cooked traditional Costa Rican food. With her husband, Don Jorge, they run a small business offering a place to stay, three meals, and tours around the region. Close to their property there are hills from which Lake Nicaragua can be seen, including Omepete Island. They have a small farm, horses, cows, and produce their own milk and cheese. On the back yard there is a swing hanging from a really tall Ceiba tree. We all had a chance to try it, and man, that was fun!
Daniel and Dominique, owners of Sueño Celeste Hotel, cooked breakfast every morning, with fresh ingredients from the region. Thanks to them, we were able to go to town for dinner. There are no buses during the evening, and no street lights along the highway, so they drove us to town. The first night we had pizza that was just as good as in New York. On the second night we went to El Rancho de la Tilapia, and picked our own fish. Mercie beaucoup!
Rural community tourism is an activity that is taking force in Costa Rica. This is one of the best ways to get a real feeling of Costa Rican culture. Family-owned farms in rural areas provide accomodations, real traditional food, and tours of their farms. I have seen a few of them on national TV programs, and even though I have not gone on one of them, I can tell this is an excellent alternative to appreciate something real. There is some good info about this type of tourism at travel-info-costarica.com and transitionsabroad.com.
Birds
This region of the country, in between the Tenorio and Miravalles volcanoes, is heaven for bird-watchers. One very good technique to attract birds in the rain forest is to leave some fruit on a stick. Every morning I had breakfast with a view of Tucans, Oropendulas, Fly Catchers, Blue Gray Tanagers, Woodpeckers and many others outside the window from the dinning area.
White face monkeys rule here. They hang out near the beach, chasing and pulling each other's tails and stealing food from people. One day, in a matter of minutes the picnic area became an open air zoo. Aside from the monkeys there were a group of loud tucans on a tree nearby, garrobos and iguanas standing by, a group of Guatusas sniffing around. This is a good place to observe wild life and swim in one of the most beautiful beaches in Costa Rica.
What next
This was my last week of travel in Costa Rica. On Monday I am going to Granada, Nicaragua to do volunteer work at Building New Hope and Casa Xalteva. I will be teaching and working as a counselor for school children and teenagers.
Currently, both countries are having a border dispute over Isla Calero on the Caribbean side. Costa Rica is suing Nicaragua, and the decision by the ICJ will be known on Tuesday. I will be there by then, and think it is going to be interesting to see the reactions on the Nicaraguan side depending on the results.
It was great to have traveled within Costa Rica. I visited places I had never seen when I lived here, and have met great people in every place. Now, I have a better idea of what my country is like and can compare better with other places. Many ask me if I will ever return to live here, but I am not sure. I want to see more of what is out there, and I am liking it!
Thanks to all of you who have been following me through my blog. I appreciate your comments and words of support. When I write in my journal, I often do it thinking I am actually telling you my stories directly. I hope to keep improving my writing style and picture techniques, so you can better appreciate the places I have visited.
Next week I will be posting a new album for the picture contest with all the cover pictures from the entire trip in Costa Rica and Panama. Remember to vote!
Photo albums this week
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