Sunday, June 26, 2011

Blogging about Prague in Munich

Over 2000 hits and counting!

The Horseshoe Journal reached and surpassed the 2000 hits mark. Thanks for your views and interest. This gives me more motivation to keep writing. Now I am in Munich, typing about Prague, and when I get back to Prague, will be typing about Munich and Konstanz.


Prague (Praha)

The view of Prague is definitely better from Petřín Hill and the Prague Castle. Getting there is a nice walk, through stone streets and well maintained old buildings. I like the red roofs of the houses, pointy green tower roofs, dark gray stone bridges and towers, and the large statues holding yellow swards. From this side of the river, the ambient is much more relaxed and surrounded by nature. Prague is small and offers both benefits, the amenities of a multicultural and active city, and the tranquility of parks and nature.




Somewhere in this ocean of red tile roofs I have visited some good pubs with the Czechs. Drinking beer seems to be the national pastime, and I am catching up rather quickly! Czech beer is very tasty and affordable. The pickled cheese with Rye bread is the best after 4 jars at the pub. In the last few days I have visited two Latin clubs, La Cubanita and Rincon Latino. I've heard there is Palenque and the Green Tree for more European style dance beats.




I particularly like this picture of the Petřín Lookout Tower (Petřínská rozhledna, 1891). From far it looks a little bit like the Eiffel Tower, and is a fifth its size. It is at the top of Petřín Hill, and takes a good 40 minutes walk. Tiring, but worth for the views and the gardens around the tower.

Along the hill there is the Hunger Wall (Hladová zeď, 1360). The local myth is it that the wall was built not necessarily to protect Prague, but to employ and feed the poor during the 1361 famine, hence the name.

I waited for two hours to take this shot. Turns out, and I forgot this, that in June the days are longer. There was sunlight at 10:00 pm, but it was worth the wait, and here it is.




Prague Orloj is one of the oldest astronomical clocks in the world. It was completed in 1410. Aside from telling the time, it also indicates the position of the Sun and the Moon, the zodiac signs, and the seasons. Every hour the four statues on the sides are set in motion, and the skeleton, representing death, rings the bell, and the rooster above the clock sings.

Every hour during the day, at about a quarter to the hour a large group of people gather around the clock to see the event. It is a very nice experience, considering the oldest and most important mechanical parts of the clock are over 600 years old, and still work with high precision. The whole thing takes about a minute. There is a small window over the clock, that open and wooden statues of the twelve Apostles appear. At the very end, a guy plays the trumpet and greets the crowds.




Saint Vitus Cathedral (1344) is inside the Prague Castle. Bohemian kings and Holy Roman Emperors are buried here. The work of art inside and outside, and the level of detail around the cathedral is amazing!

The golden gate on the south side has images entirely made of tiles. In the middle there is Jesus. On the left side the raising of the death, and on the right souls being punished in hell. On the lower left corner there is the scene of the original sin, and on the right Jesus crucified. It is fascinating the way of telling a story through this kind of art.

There is much more to see and do here, but I am telling you, need time to experience it first.

Photo album

Monday, June 20, 2011

Hermelín, Kroměříž - Česká republika

Kroměříž



For the first days here in Praha (Prague in Czech) I stayed with two really good friends, Kuba and Anna. Two weekends ago we went to Kroměříž (est. 1260) towards the east, close to Slovakia. By the way, this business of pronouncing Czech is not easy at all. The accent marks are not so bad, but things do get complicated with words that don't even have vowels. Try this tong-twister to see what I mean (č is pronounced "ch" as in "cheap")


Kroměříž [ˈkromɲɛr̝iːʃ] is Kuba's hometown. It started as a market village in the early 1200's, then became a Constitutive Imperial Congress in the 1800's.

The region around is hilly and very green. The town is quite, the architecture is very old, and the streets in the downtown area are curvey and made of stone, and there is a nice central plaza for community events. In the back there are the old communist style apartment buildings. They used to be gray, now they are painted in different colors.




When we first arrived, there was live music and then an old Czech movie from the 60's (the golden film era in CZ), and stands with food, beer and souveniers. There was also a lady selling Bohemian pastries and sweets. She was very excited telling us how she had found very old recipies, including one from the Roman times of a sweet pastry that the Roman soldiers used to eat a lot because of the sugar it provided'em with.


The Chateau



Close to the plaza there is the Kroměříž Archbishop's Palace and the Flower Garden, two of the most interesting places I have ever seen. The Chateau is very big, has original forniture from centuries ago, and there is a very nice garden in the back. I particularly liked the paintings hanging on the walls and the frescos on the ceilings. The tour can only be done with a guide, who speaks only in Czech, and gives reading material in English. It was not easy, but the palace is very interesting to see.


A maze made of flowers



The Flower Garden, also known as Libosad, is of great significance for its unique gardening style in the world. It started as a garden for fruits and vegetables in the 14th century, and then was turned into a Baroque shape garden in the 17th century.

During this time of the year is wedding season. So, there were a few couples inside the garden taking pictures. One of them jumped in a horse carriage, and behind there were the photographers driving an old syle red car at full speed. It was very interesing to see as a matter of fact.




The garden is beautiful inside, and has four mazes made of grass and flowers. There is also a Rotunda with sculptures and frescos of mythological creatures. In the middle of the building there is a Foucault pendulum, which movement is believed to demonstrate the rotation of the Earth. It is simply amazing! I pushed it and it made eliptical shapes on the sand, going from long to short and in multiple directions, all of them converging in a middle point. Awesome experiment!




I like the town a lot and see it as a good destination for a different and very local experience in the Czech Republic outside of Prague. Plus, visiting pubs with lots of Czech friends the entire night, singing "Tres Tristes Tigres Tragan Trigo Tras Tres Trigales" medieval style, then climbing the scaffold attached to a Gothic style church all the way to the top of one of the towers, where the pigeons live, for a fine view of town and the mountains very early in the morning when there is no one around on a Sunday morning.... a great experience!




Getting there is part of the adventure. We took one of those old European trains like in the movies, with the "policie" chasing Bourne and all that. The windows open from top to bottom, and it is very relaxing to stand on the hallway looking outside and feeling the air. The scenery is flat land as far as the eye can see at first, then hilly, then large wheat fields, then towns, then back to flat land, and so on. Very nice.


Hermelín

One thing is to visit Praha and enjoy cheap and good quality beer at a pub or beer garden with your buddies. Another one is to drink beer while eating Hermelín. This is one of the best "tapas" I have ever had. It is made of a cheese similar to Brie, cut in half, stuffed with garlic, spices, peppers, onions, and whatever else you can find over the counter, then marinated in oil for at least three days and served with Rye bread. This is "Dee" good Czech stuff, people!



I also had Gulasch, a traditional beef stew dish from the Czech Republic. Kuba's mom made it and was delicious! The entire weekend I was eating every day every hour everything. Later in the evening we had a BBQ at the new house, and told jokes. And this is true, that humor is difficult to translate into different languages. Still, we managed to go from Spanish to English to Czech and vice-versa, and had a good meal with jokes, tong-twisters and misunderstood phrases.




Photo album

Thursday, June 16, 2011

Czech Republic

On the other side of the pond

I actually got this first line from when I was in Costa Rica before I heard it in English when I moved to New York. Little that I knew, I would develop an interest for coming to Central and Eastern Europe, mostly because of all the friends I made in my college years while earning my associates degree in International Business. So, here I am in Česká republika and liking it.


Charles Bridge and Prague Castle


The city is very interesting, old streets, castles, history, culture... very stimulating. All the buildings are interesting and beautiful. In some ways it reminds me to Istanbul and Rome, not that it is a mix, but the concept and importance of the art and culture.


Astronomical Clock


I feel good here. I have made some good friends, we visit pubs and beer gardens, play football (soccer), and took one of those trains from the movies taking place in a Central/Eastern European countries to visit a town closer to the border with Slovakia - Kroměříž. I have also tasted pickled cheese and found out mold is not so bad after all - good mold of course.

Culturally speaking, it seems the Czechs are a homogeneous society, although there are some foreigners living here. The language is extremely difficult, at least from a Western language perspective. I try to read everything on the street, and seems to be I am doing well with the accent - so far, so good.

I still have some more walking to do, take pictures and understand more about the history and culture here. There are lots of books that already do this, but perhaps I can try to give a different account from a personal perspective. Besides, seems I will be sticking around for a long time.

Stay tuned!

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

New York, just stopping by

Grand Central Terminal is a place to go to other places. Some people run to the train tracks on the upper and lower levels with two minutes before the train departs. Others stay around the clock to meet someone. Flashlights go off for a memory at the main court. Goodbyes and "see you later" are heard thousands of times. Everyday of the year it is like this, here as in many other places where people go their ways.




My mom is always fascinated by how many people run around during peak hour. She says they look like ants. I think they do, and like ants, everyone here knows what to do, even if they are confused about what to do and where to go to. It is a complex and interesting place, and in a way it is a tiny sample of what the world is like out there, just faster. I am also fascinated by how similar we are to ants.




It was good to be here for a few weeks. Now, I am off to Prague.... today actually! I have heard really good things about the city and the country, and am looking forward to being there soon.

NYC is my home, and when I am here it feels good. There is more to it than the stores along 5th Avenue and Times Square or the Empire State. I recommend visiting the lower Manhattan, including West and East Villages, SoHo, Tribeca, Meat Pack District, Union Square, East/Spanish Harlem and of course, Central Park and the surrounding areas.

Queens and Brooklyn are also my favorite areas. I like Astoria and Flushing in Queens, Williamsburg and Bushwick in Brooklyn. There are many other areas I have not seen, but for that need more time. The Bronx Zoo and the New York Botanical Gardens also in the Bronx are a must. I have never been to Staten Island, but maybe one day I will decide to cross the Verrazano. Jersey is nice too and has a fine view of the NYC skyline, leave alone rent can be considerably cheaper and the commute is very convinient with Path. The road signs are not the best, but that is that - so, take it seriously!

So much to do and see here without need to spend too much, although you will spend a lot of money one way or another. But it is NYC after all, a great city.

Now I am going to the airport, with the same back pack and a few shirts less. I bought a 57'' tripod from the Israeli store on 14 street at $25. Not bad!

Thanks for taking some time of your busy schedules to hang out. I appreciate it. Please stay in touch.

Again, stay tuned. There is more "horseshoeing" coming this way!

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Six months "horseshoeing"

. . .

The traveler changes his path
even if this proves to be harmfull
and just as everything changes
the fact that I change it's not in the least strange





The starting line

Sometimes we plan things and expect them to go as we had imagined, but often that does not happen. I had planned to just visit Costa Rica and Nicaragua, then take off to South East Asia and Central Europe. Over time I changed my plans, and then realized it was not gonna be how I said. Instead, I went with the flow and ended up enjoying it more.

The road I first had chosen led me to other roads that I had not had considered, or at least didn't take them seriously from the beginning. When I was in Spain over a year ago, I came to the conclusion that in order to find oneself it is a good idea to often lose oneself. This proved to be effective and I ended up traveling across Central America. The trip came out much more interesting and motivating than my original plan.

It is not just about being on the road, it is about enjoying the trip until it is time to go home.




This trip has changed me, because I am not the same one from when I left and I am good with that. I still think of the day I hit the road and why, and the hours in front of that door before taking off. The initial motivations of my actions are not always going to be there at the end of the events, but I think that is also right. I guess I am always changing, like all of us, just didn't consider it as much as I do now.




Along the way

I visited seven countries in six months and experienced different cultures, realities, nature, and ways of life. I saw breathtaking valleys, forests, waterfalls, canyons, volcanoes, lakes, wild life, ancient cities. I visited indigenous villages and culturally diversed towns and cities, and talked to people about their lives and experiences. I learned a little more about the local music, dances, foods, and religious believes. There are lots of cultural things going on all around, and I like to be exposed to them.

I also met really good friends, both locals and travelers from around the world. Many of my friends and family back home were there with me as well. To all of you, thank you for the words of support and motivation, for your questions and comments, for the interesting conversations and the crazy ideas, for the dances and songs, for the unexpected adventures and your different views of life, for being there all the time.




I got into hiking and better at swimming. I hitch hiked, survived crazy bus rides, worked as a bartender, taught Spanish and Salsa, learned the basics of working with jewlery, Guatemalan weaving and Costa Rican handicraft making, and lately began to create my own post cards. I learned about the hardships of wars in Central America by talking to people who lost their entire families, and met three men who were involved in the Cuban, Guatemalan, and Nicaraguan revolutions.




I had the opportunity to teach ESL to school children and led a youth conversation event in Granada. I got to see extreme poverty and experienced different approaches to social issues. Early in my trip I became part of an international organization to bring donations to children living on rubbish dumps in Nicaragua. There is a lot of need out there, and thankfully there are so many who care and want to help to improve people's lives. I am honored to have met and shared with volunteers and travelers who care for others who are less fortunate.




Beyond my initial expectations, this was a trip of little trips, and it felt I did more than I had ever imagined I would do. At first there was a concrete plan of "what and when", and then I learned to go with the flow, and enjoyed more this way. I traveled alone, but was never lonely. Met lots of interesting people and made friends from all over the world.

I always wanted to do something like this, let go of the daily worries and jump over the fance. I was fortunate to have had the right circumstances and opportunities, and appreciate all I have seen and done ever since.




We shall not cease from exploration,
and the end of all our exploring
will be to arrive where we started,
and know the place for the first time.


Looking back

There are many experiences that I lived often in every country. I met locals and other travelers from around the world who made my trip even better. Talking to people about their opinions on several topics is an effective learning experience. Also, in my travels I had come to trully believe that people are good and want to be helpful to one another, despite some instances of greed, selfishness and intolerance.




Another one is the chicken buses. Except from Belize and Costa Rica, they are always ridiculously crowed, and when you think there is no room for one more person, five more come in. In serveral stops, sellers come into the bus all at once offering coconut water, homemade bread, illigal copies of the latest films, and miraculous pills that they claim practically cure every illness. Some drivers take their job to the next level and think of themselves as formula one racers while turning on sharp cuves up in the mountains. It is quite an experience to be in a chicken bus, and I loved it every bit.

People often ask me what I liked the most about my trip, and I am always confused about the answer. In all honesty I liked it all, but that is way too obvious and doesn't create enough room for discussion.
I had very diversed experiences, and because of that I cannot just say what I liked the most without first going over each of them.




In every country I had totally different experiences. In Guatemala, for example, what I liked the most was the fact that there is a large indigenous population, they conserve many of their traditions, and struggle to keep their culture alive. Also, the natural settings are beautiful, and seeing the ancient city of Tikal was a dream come true.




In Nicaragua I had a great time bartending and meeting so many people from around the world while opening a bottle of beer or preparing a Macua or Mojito. I also enjoyed teaching ESL to school children, and riding my bike on the streets of colonial Granada to go to work, and my experience helping people at the garbash dumps was a life lesson.




Costa Rica, well, it is my own country. Before I left over 10 years ago I knew very few places, but this time around I did every effort to see towns, natural settings and attend festivities I had always heard of, but never went to experience. I love the rural areas and the cultural aspects of the small towns and farmland areas. I enter into another state of mind with the small of fresh brewed coffee, wet dirt after the rain, and the feeling of a cool breeze in a hot and sunny day anywhere in the country. Our traditions and way of life are reason enough for Ticos to suffer from "Mal de Patria" - homeland sickness, and not stay overseas for too long. Few of us, like myself, for whatever reason decided to break the rule and do something different.




I had short visits in Panama, Belize, and Honduras, but got to see lots of good things.

The skyline in Panama City is like no other in Central America. In fact, it looks like the one in Miami, and to some extend in New York. The canal was something very impresive to see, and I also learned that in Panama there is a mixture of culture as a result of the construction of the canal that attracted migrant workers from all around the world. Casco Viejo is very nice and some say it is the Old Havana of Panama, while Bocas del Toro is very good to see wild life and to party. Salsa is good here, and baseball is more popular than soccer, although it is catching up.




In Belize I learned about the Garifuna culture, and made very good friends. I enjoyed the drumming and traditional Punta dance. The food is also quite good, typical of Caribbean cousine. Playing dominos from late in the afternoon at the local bar is a serious affair, and a good excuse for a few beers.There, I also met a group of volunteers with the Peace Corps. I learned from them what the organization does, difficulties they go through on the field, and how pationate many of these volunteers are to help others.




In Honduras I had the opportunity to see one of the Lenca indigenous regions, which is pretty much the last one left in the country. They are no related to the Mayans, but were trading partners and shared some cultural aspects and history during the conquest. The town of Gracias is very colonial and is close to other small towns in between the mountains that have a rich indigenous tradition. I met a few people here who had a lot of questions about Costa Rica and Guatemala. I think they will go one day, and that is awesome.




El Salvador, as I had commented in my last posting was a family time. My cousins are my brothers, just like my mom considers her cousins her brothers. I often wonder what it would have been like if I had been raised here. No real answer can be good because I will never really know, but one thing I am sure of is that it would have been even more fun.


Stay tuned for the next place!